Little Room For Improvement

Last month I wrote about the difficulty of ordering wines by the glass, which never taste as fresh as when a new bottle is opened.

So whenever someone suggests going for a glass, I am skeptical. Saturday night, however, a visit to The Room on Sullivan Street offered hope.

Chalkboards above the bar list an extensive offering of beer and wine, including many interesting options as opposed to the few standard varietals that are obligatory on most menus.

My friend, who normally enjoys Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand was interested to try a new white and quite liked the aromatic Arneis I  recommended from the Langhe region in Italy’s Piedmont.

I was in the mood for red, and was excited and surprised to see  J Hofstatter’s 2008 Pinot Nero, which I ordered. I’m familiar with the producer from the Alto Adige region of Italy, where the cool climate yields crisp, cool wines. This one was no exception.

Perhaps my problem with red wine by the glass is that it’s often served too hot. And maybe the light body and acidity of J Hofstatter offset what could have been a disaster. Still, the temperature was perfect and allowed the wine to exude its notes of earthiness and spice on the nose and palate.

It’s a place that I’d love to suggest to others when looking for a single glass option. Yet, given the difficulty my friends and I had in securing seats upon arriving, I am pretty certain others already know that The Room is a destination for a great glass of wine.

 

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Potentially Perfect Pinot?

I had low expectations when I signed up for Sherry-Lehmann’s New Zealand wine tasting the other night. It’s a region I know only for its premium Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. I had heard New Zealand Pinot Noir is emerging as a contender in the realm of Pinot production. The climate certainly is conducive to grow the grapes – not overly hot temperatures and cool evenings.

Of course, I’m an Old World girl and dubious, but with an open mind I tasted Pinots from Central Otago, Marlborough and Martinborough. To my surprise, I actually found many similarities to (gulp) Burgundy. Some expressed fruitier qualities reminiscent of Beaujolais while others were earthy and more complex. Call me crazy, but I felt validation when I read Eric Asimov’s February 17, 2010, New York Times article “New Zealand Youths With Promise.”

There were roughly 15 producers showing their wines and admittedly I didn’t get to taste them all. Of the ones I did try there were two I wouldn’t hesitate to buy. Mt. Difficulty’s 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir was without a doubt awesome. I’m not sure if tasted blind next to a Burgundy I’d be able to differentiate between the two.

The second Pinot that blew me away was from Spy Valley. The 2008 vintage reminded me of a top Beaujolais. It was a fruit forward wine with a strong finish.

Ata Rangi from Martinborough is recognized as another strong Pinot producer, but the 2008 that was poured was somewhat disappointing after hearing so many in the crowd rave about it.

What each of these wines demonstrated, however, is that New Zealand is an up and coming, if not an already-arrived, region for quality Pinot Noir. I wonder if in a few years there could be a new generation Bottle Shock.

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Pinot faceoff

Burgundy and Oregon Pinots are among my favorite (non-Italian) wines, and this week’s back-to-back Pinot tastings reconfirmed that each region churns out elegant, well made wines.

Sherry-Lehmann on Wednesday evening held a special event with winemaker Pierre Meurgey of Domaine Champy in Burgundy. There were roughly a dozen and a half wines to try, 12 of which were Pinots from the 2006 and 2008 vintages. I started my tasting in the opposite direction than what was suggested: Grand and Premier Cru.

As suspected, these wines did not disappoint. My favorites were Maison Champy Echezeaux Grand Cru 2006 and Maison Champy Clos de Vougeot 2006. They drank well now, but both have the potential to age 10 years, which the winemaker recommended. I thought both were classic examples of Burgundy, reflecting the terroir and possessing qualities that Pinots from New Zealand, California and other New World vineyards do not.

That said, I do make an exception when it comes to Oregon Pinots. Given that the rootstock came directly from France and that the climate is quite similar to that of Burgundy, the wines generally posses similar nuances. I’ve long enjoyed Pinots from Sokol Blosser and Ken Wright but within the past year I’ve been introduced to St. Innocent.

Last night I participated in the St. Innocent tasting at Union Square Wines. While I’d only had Pinot from its Shea Vineyard previously, there were some other vineyards that are worth seeking out. Winemaker and founder Mark Vlossak explained that the winery produces small lot, handmade wines, which explain the competitive prices.

In each taste there were characteristics associated with Burgundian Pinots, including notes of spice, black cherry fruit, and flowers. These wines were elegant, just like classic Burgundy. While Shea remains atop my favorites list of vineyard in Oregon, I got to try Pinot from the Zenith and Justice Vineyards. Both were incredible and contenders for “best in show.”

It’s generally thought that the same grape derived from different regions create completely different wines and manifest different expressions. But in this case, Oregon is as close as one can come to tasting the great Grand Cru of Burgundy.

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Wines of the times

Wine trends come and go. The 2004 movie Sideways drove consumers away from Merlot, as Paul Giamatti’s character Miles eschewed the juice. Meanwhile, in the last few years, Malbec from Argentina and Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand started accounting for significant market share as these selections became trendy.

Eric Asimov’s June 1 column in The Pour, “Is There Still Hope for Syrah,” discusses the unpopularity of that grape in the U.S. It’s little wonder, given the increasing quality of wines that are emerging from Oregon and Washington State.

Oregon Pinot has been popular for several years now, but Washington, which boasts more than 30 varietals, is making a mark. Though the international grapes – Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – comprise the majority of growth in hectares within the state, the region’s quality production, and affordable price tag, is attracting wine drinkers.

It’s also worth noting the change in global wine consumption. The Bergen Record’s May 26 article, “Facing a Shift in the Flow of Wine Drinking,” notes that Italians are drinking less wine while China is consuming more. As a result, some winemakers are producing styles that are easy to drink and will appeal to many different palates. These wines are often made from common varietals and are sold at discounts to expensive cult wines and age-worthy selections.

Yes, first-growth Bordeaux and Grand Cru Burgundy will always be coveted, but these wines are cost-prohibitive. Perhaps that’s why South American wines are becoming so fashionable. Chilean Carmenere is a great value, often retailing for under $20, and in many cases even less. Such wallet-friendly wines are gaining favor, for now. The next big trend is anyone’s guess.

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To chance, to change

Change takes some getting used to. As a society, we opt for the security of the known and take comfort in our routines and habits. We might not pursue ventures or take risks for fear of failing.

Within the wine world, there have been copious changes, some that have been embraced and others that proved unsuccessful. For example, the attempt at modernization of Italy’s wine production never truly took off. Using temperature-controlled winemaking and storage facilities, 100% barrique and rotary fermentation may have led to easier and cheaper production, but it came at the expense of classic wines. Some winemakers, like Paolo Scavino, ultimately switched back to traditional practices, including the use of Slavonian oak.

Currently, one of the big movements seen within the industry is in the form of bottle closures. Though many wine drinkers initially turned up their noses at the screw cap, increasingly more producers are shifting towards the twist off and away from cork. New World producers appear to be leading the charge. The U.S., Chile and New Zealand, among other countries, all offer wines that come sealed by twist-off tops.

This week’s e-mail blast from Appellation Wine & Spirits contrasts the use of cork versus screw cap closure. Though offering pros and cons of each, Screw Top (May 12) veered toward the merits of the screw cap.

In recent years, the use of a flip-off top, much like a bottle of beer, has been employed to seal sparkling wines.  I’m reminded of a bottle of the Green Point Non Vintage Brut from Australia that I tasted while living in London. The contents were just as delicious as sparklers with cork closures. An added benefit was the ease of opening the bottle, without worry that the pressure would escape too quickly and cause an explosion rather than the “pfff” that should be softly sounded. Of course, there’s something ceremonious about popping the cork on a bottle of sparkling wine that was lacking from the Green Point.

There’s no telling if or when there will be closure to whether cork or a screw cap is better to seal a bottle. And there’s no telling if risks we take are the right ones until we try. However, the good thing about change is that there’s always the option to change back.

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Riesling revisited

Riesling is among the most food-friendly wines, and it’s also one of the most misunderstood varietals. As I mentioned in a previous post, The iterations of Riesling, preconceived notions often deter people from trying new things.

I recently found myself guilty of, once again, falling victim to such erroneous and ignorant thinking (i.e., all Rieslings are sweet). I had been keeping a couple of bottles of Riesling that I received complimentary in my wine cabinet – deeming them even unworthy of the EuroCave. But as the outdoor temperature started to rise, I decided I could possibly put the bottles in the kitchen refrigerator to chill should an opportunity arise that I might want to sample them.

So on a shelf below some eggs and yogurt sat a 2007 Babich from Marlborough, New Zealand alongside a 2008 Genus 4 from Eden Valley, Australia. On a recent warm night, I decided to take a chance on one of the wines. Having tasted Rieslings from the Eden Valley before and liking them, I decided to try the Babich – better to drink the worse one first and keep the better one, right?

On the contrary; the Babich was delicious. The dry juice exhibited expressions of petrol, stone fruits and fresh acidity. I should have realized that given the Marlborogh’s late summer/autumn growing season, characterized by warm days that are tempered by cool nights, the climate is ideal for Riesling.

Yet, no matter how much we try to keep an open mind, we often revert back to what we think we know. But sometimes when we free ourselves from our rigid thinking, we might allow ourselves to find pleasure where we least expected to.

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