Potentially Perfect Pinot?

I had low expectations when I signed up for Sherry-Lehmann’s New Zealand wine tasting the other night. It’s a region I know only for its premium Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. I had heard New Zealand Pinot Noir is emerging as a contender in the realm of Pinot production. The climate certainly is conducive to grow the grapes – not overly hot temperatures and cool evenings.

Of course, I’m an Old World girl and dubious, but with an open mind I tasted Pinots from Central Otago, Marlborough and Martinborough. To my surprise, I actually found many similarities to (gulp) Burgundy. Some expressed fruitier qualities reminiscent of Beaujolais while others were earthy and more complex. Call me crazy, but I felt validation when I read Eric Asimov’s February 17, 2010, New York Times article “New Zealand Youths With Promise.”

There were roughly 15 producers showing their wines and admittedly I didn’t get to taste them all. Of the ones I did try there were two I wouldn’t hesitate to buy. Mt. Difficulty’s 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir was without a doubt awesome. I’m not sure if tasted blind next to a Burgundy I’d be able to differentiate between the two.

The second Pinot that blew me away was from Spy Valley. The 2008 vintage reminded me of a top Beaujolais. It was a fruit forward wine with a strong finish.

Ata Rangi from Martinborough is recognized as another strong Pinot producer, but the 2008 that was poured was somewhat disappointing after hearing so many in the crowd rave about it.

What each of these wines demonstrated, however, is that New Zealand is an up and coming, if not an already-arrived, region for quality Pinot Noir. I wonder if in a few years there could be a new generation Bottle Shock.

Read Full Post »

Terroir or terror?

Terroir is a French word that refers to distinctive attributes coming from a vineyard location as a result of soil, climate, slope, etc. It is believed that the terroir gives a varietal a special and unique characteristics that make the pinot noir in the Willamette Valley taste different from that in Carneros, Central Otago and Burgundy.

I often view terroir as something favorable. There’s a reason why Rieslings from the Mosel Valley in Germany taste so incredible: the soil composition, the slope of the vineyards, and the influence the Mosel River has on the grapes as they grow.

However, sometimes there may be negative influences as well that detract or change the terroir. An interesting article in Thursday’s (4/1/2010) Wall Street Journal entitle “Sipping These Wines is Like Smoking And Drinking at the Same Time” points out that as a result of the wild fires in California, many of the 2008 pinots from the Anderson Valley have a smoky quality to them. Indeed, they portray the terroir of the vintage.

It’s proving a problem, and winemakers are trying different fining practices and filtration techniques to rid the wines of the “wet ashtray” character to no avail. As a result of the smoke taint, the wines are being substantially marked down, and some vintners are choosing to release only small quantities of their wine, or none at all.

I’m not sure how I’d feel about smokiness in my wine. It seems the smoked flavor would be better suited for beer. And there are beers that are smoked, such as Stone Smoked Porter, Imperial Smoked Porter and Church Key Holy Smoke Scotch Ale, which taste absolutely delicious.

If prices really are reduced, then I would say don’t dismiss the 2008 vintage without trying it first. Wine is exploration is all about keeping an open mind, after all.

Of course, I’m pretty certain that if I’m in the mood for something smoked, I’ll just pick up a Rogue Smoke Ale.

Read Full Post »