Terroir is a French word that refers to distinctive attributes coming from a vineyard location as a result of soil, climate, slope, etc. It is believed that the terroir gives a varietal a special and unique characteristics that make the pinot noir in the Willamette Valley taste different from that in Carneros, Central Otago and Burgundy.
I often view terroir as something favorable. There’s a reason why Rieslings from the Mosel Valley in Germany taste so incredible: the soil composition, the slope of the vineyards, and the influence the Mosel River has on the grapes as they grow.
However, sometimes there may be negative influences as well that detract or change the terroir. An interesting article in Thursday’s (4/1/2010) Wall Street Journal entitle “Sipping These Wines is Like Smoking And Drinking at the Same Time” points out that as a result of the wild fires in California, many of the 2008 pinots from the Anderson Valley have a smoky quality to them. Indeed, they portray the terroir of the vintage.
It’s proving a problem, and winemakers are trying different fining practices and filtration techniques to rid the wines of the “wet ashtray” character to no avail. As a result of the smoke taint, the wines are being substantially marked down, and some vintners are choosing to release only small quantities of their wine, or none at all.
I’m not sure how I’d feel about smokiness in my wine. It seems the smoked flavor would be better suited for beer. And there are beers that are smoked, such as Stone Smoked Porter, Imperial Smoked Porter and Church Key Holy Smoke Scotch Ale, which taste absolutely delicious.
If prices really are reduced, then I would say don’t dismiss the 2008 vintage without trying it first. Wine is exploration is all about keeping an open mind, after all.
Of course, I’m pretty certain that if I’m in the mood for something smoked, I’ll just pick up a Rogue Smoke Ale.
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