Potentially Perfect Pinot?

I had low expectations when I signed up for Sherry-Lehmann’s New Zealand wine tasting the other night. It’s a region I know only for its premium Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. I had heard New Zealand Pinot Noir is emerging as a contender in the realm of Pinot production. The climate certainly is conducive to grow the grapes – not overly hot temperatures and cool evenings.

Of course, I’m an Old World girl and dubious, but with an open mind I tasted Pinots from Central Otago, Marlborough and Martinborough. To my surprise, I actually found many similarities to (gulp) Burgundy. Some expressed fruitier qualities reminiscent of Beaujolais while others were earthy and more complex. Call me crazy, but I felt validation when I read Eric Asimov’s February 17, 2010, New York Times article “New Zealand Youths With Promise.”

There were roughly 15 producers showing their wines and admittedly I didn’t get to taste them all. Of the ones I did try there were two I wouldn’t hesitate to buy. Mt. Difficulty’s 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir was without a doubt awesome. I’m not sure if tasted blind next to a Burgundy I’d be able to differentiate between the two.

The second Pinot that blew me away was from Spy Valley. The 2008 vintage reminded me of a top Beaujolais. It was a fruit forward wine with a strong finish.

Ata Rangi from Martinborough is recognized as another strong Pinot producer, but the 2008 that was poured was somewhat disappointing after hearing so many in the crowd rave about it.

What each of these wines demonstrated, however, is that New Zealand is an up and coming, if not an already-arrived, region for quality Pinot Noir. I wonder if in a few years there could be a new generation Bottle Shock.

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Riesling revisited

Riesling is among the most food-friendly wines, and it’s also one of the most misunderstood varietals. As I mentioned in a previous post, The iterations of Riesling, preconceived notions often deter people from trying new things.

I recently found myself guilty of, once again, falling victim to such erroneous and ignorant thinking (i.e., all Rieslings are sweet). I had been keeping a couple of bottles of Riesling that I received complimentary in my wine cabinet – deeming them even unworthy of the EuroCave. But as the outdoor temperature started to rise, I decided I could possibly put the bottles in the kitchen refrigerator to chill should an opportunity arise that I might want to sample them.

So on a shelf below some eggs and yogurt sat a 2007 Babich from Marlborough, New Zealand alongside a 2008 Genus 4 from Eden Valley, Australia. On a recent warm night, I decided to take a chance on one of the wines. Having tasted Rieslings from the Eden Valley before and liking them, I decided to try the Babich – better to drink the worse one first and keep the better one, right?

On the contrary; the Babich was delicious. The dry juice exhibited expressions of petrol, stone fruits and fresh acidity. I should have realized that given the Marlborogh’s late summer/autumn growing season, characterized by warm days that are tempered by cool nights, the climate is ideal for Riesling.

Yet, no matter how much we try to keep an open mind, we often revert back to what we think we know. But sometimes when we free ourselves from our rigid thinking, we might allow ourselves to find pleasure where we least expected to.

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$15 or less

In a city where a glass of wine may cost $15, it’s a treat to find a bottle that not only falls into that price point, but that is also pleasant to drink. Last night I participated in a “Selecting Your House Wine” tasting dinner, where all of the wines cost $15 or less per bottle.

There were eight wines paired with the five-course meal, and only one was truly disappointing: The 2007, Thorn-Clarke, Terra Barossa, Shiraz. The wine was not very well balanced and had too much oak on the palate, overpowering any fruit. 

Upon arriving at the dinner, we were greeted with a glass of Mionetto, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Brut, NV. A bottle costs around $12, and where other Proseccos in this range taste somewhat off-dry generally, this one truly was a dry and delightful.  

The first course featured a Pinot Grigio and a Sauvignon Blanc. The Zenato Pinot Grigio della Venezie, 2008, was a standard dry Pinot Grigio from Italy, with a short finish. It benefited from the sole with crab stuffing and lemon-parsley couscous that it was paired with, which brought out some of the flavor. For $10, it is a good accompaniment to food, and offers far better value than the standard Santa Margherita that is more than double the price.

The Cupcake Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, NZ, 2009, was a definite standout, however. The varietal and region have achieved cult status, and command premium prices for names such as Cloudy Bay. The Cupcake can be purchased for nearly a third of the price, and truthfully, my friends and I thought we could enjoy it as a stand alone. It paired pretty well with the food, also.

Next up was the Red Bicyclette, Chardonnay, Vin de Pays D’Oc. I’ve seen the Red Bicyclette on shop shelves, and have always steered clear from it. What a mistake. At $10 a bottle, this Chardonnay was extremely pleasing, had no oak on the palate, which is what I find most off-putting from many Chardonnays, and was very well balanced.

The Perrin & Fils, Cotes du Rhone, Reserve, 2007 was another good find. The Grenache/ Syrah/Mourvedre blend was light to medium bodied with a delicious contrast of red fruit and pepper on the palate. This was another wine that could easily stand alone, and again, it retails for roughly $10.

The 2005 Peter Lehman Cabernet Sauvignon from the Barossa Valley was among the favorites of the crowd. The wine was extremely well balanced, and had some black cherry and blackberry notes along with chocolate and clove. The finish was medium to long.

The night ended with a Taylor-Fladgate, Ruby Port, NV. It was a fairly weak expression of a Port and lacked complexity. Still, to find a Port that falls into a $15 category is a challenge in itself, and for non-Port drinkers, this might be a good entry point. 

Ironically, it was only a few nights ago that my cousin and I were out and ended our night with a glass of Churchill’s Tawny Port. With tax and tip we wound up spending around $20 apiece.

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