Pinot faceoff

Burgundy and Oregon Pinots are among my favorite (non-Italian) wines, and this week’s back-to-back Pinot tastings reconfirmed that each region churns out elegant, well made wines.

Sherry-Lehmann on Wednesday evening held a special event with winemaker Pierre Meurgey of Domaine Champy in Burgundy. There were roughly a dozen and a half wines to try, 12 of which were Pinots from the 2006 and 2008 vintages. I started my tasting in the opposite direction than what was suggested: Grand and Premier Cru.

As suspected, these wines did not disappoint. My favorites were Maison Champy Echezeaux Grand Cru 2006 and Maison Champy Clos de Vougeot 2006. They drank well now, but both have the potential to age 10 years, which the winemaker recommended. I thought both were classic examples of Burgundy, reflecting the terroir and possessing qualities that Pinots from New Zealand, California and other New World vineyards do not.

That said, I do make an exception when it comes to Oregon Pinots. Given that the rootstock came directly from France and that the climate is quite similar to that of Burgundy, the wines generally posses similar nuances. I’ve long enjoyed Pinots from Sokol Blosser and Ken Wright but within the past year I’ve been introduced to St. Innocent.

Last night I participated in the St. Innocent tasting at Union Square Wines. While I’d only had Pinot from its Shea Vineyard previously, there were some other vineyards that are worth seeking out. Winemaker and founder Mark Vlossak explained that the winery produces small lot, handmade wines, which explain the competitive prices.

In each taste there were characteristics associated with Burgundian Pinots, including notes of spice, black cherry fruit, and flowers. These wines were elegant, just like classic Burgundy. While Shea remains atop my favorites list of vineyard in Oregon, I got to try Pinot from the Zenith and Justice Vineyards. Both were incredible and contenders for “best in show.”

It’s generally thought that the same grape derived from different regions create completely different wines and manifest different expressions. But in this case, Oregon is as close as one can come to tasting the great Grand Cru of Burgundy.

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Bored with Bordeaux?

Eric Asimov’s May 18 column in The Pour, “Bordeaux Loses Prestige Among Younger Wine Lovers,” got me thinking; aside from a few “bargain” Bordeaux’s I purchased from Sherry-Lehmann last fall, I rarely gravitate toward the famous French wine.

The two primary varietals of  Bordeaux are Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Among the most reputable Bordeaux are those that belong to the 1855 Classification, which are ranked in five categories according to price.  The first growths and their appellations include Château Lafite-Rothschild (appellation Pauillac), Château Margaux (Margaux), Château Latour (Pauillac),  Château Haut-Brion (Pessac-Leognan), Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac), though the latter was promoted to first growth from second growth in 1973.

The Gironde River and its tributaries, the Dordogne and Garonne, divide the Bordeaux region into the Left Bank and the Right Bank. These two banks differ mainly in soil composition. Merlot is the dominant varietal growing on the Right Bank, where clay, limestone and sand make for optimal conditions for growing the grape. On the Left Bank is where Cabernet thrives amid the gravel landscape.

While Bordeaux seemed to be ubiquitous in London, on this side of the Atlantic it is certainly losing favor. I suppose part of the reason, in addition to being cost prohibitive, is that Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, proliferate in California in a style more appealing to the American palate.  Of course, California Cabs, Merlot and Meritage are sold at a fraction of the cost of the first growth Bordeaux, which after all, is really the only wine from the region worth drinking.

The New World movement also plays a role in the waning interest in Bordeaux. Many wine drinkers are turning toward Malbec and Carmènere, both more affordable and approachable. Interestingly, however, Carmènere once flourished in Bordeaux, before Phylloxera destroyed the rootstock.

Further evidence popped into my inbox today from Sherry-Lehmann. The wine store is advertising 2008 Salomon Estate’s Norwood Shiraz/Cabernet. The wine is characterized as “an Aussie take on the classic Bordeaux blend.” The wine usually retails for $21.95, but is on special for $14.95 for a limited time.

It’s no first growth, but it affirms that New World wines are gaining in popularity. Of course classic Bordeaux will continue to hold court among investors and collectors, but the reality is that the everyday wine drinker is investing in something else.

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