Eric Asimov’s May 18 column in The Pour, “Bordeaux Loses Prestige Among Younger Wine Lovers,” got me thinking; aside from a few “bargain” Bordeaux’s I purchased from Sherry-Lehmann last fall, I rarely gravitate toward the famous French wine.
The two primary varietals of Bordeaux are Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Among the most reputable Bordeaux are those that belong to the 1855 Classification, which are ranked in five categories according to price. The first growths and their appellations include Château Lafite-Rothschild (appellation Pauillac), Château Margaux (Margaux), Château Latour (Pauillac), Château Haut-Brion (Pessac-Leognan), Château Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac), though the latter was promoted to first growth from second growth in 1973.
The Gironde River and its tributaries, the Dordogne and Garonne, divide the Bordeaux region into the Left Bank and the Right Bank. These two banks differ mainly in soil composition. Merlot is the dominant varietal growing on the Right Bank, where clay, limestone and sand make for optimal conditions for growing the grape. On the Left Bank is where Cabernet thrives amid the gravel landscape.
While Bordeaux seemed to be ubiquitous in London, on this side of the Atlantic it is certainly losing favor. I suppose part of the reason, in addition to being cost prohibitive, is that Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, proliferate in California in a style more appealing to the American palate. Of course, California Cabs, Merlot and Meritage are sold at a fraction of the cost of the first growth Bordeaux, which after all, is really the only wine from the region worth drinking.
The New World movement also plays a role in the waning interest in Bordeaux. Many wine drinkers are turning toward Malbec and Carmènere, both more affordable and approachable. Interestingly, however, Carmènere once flourished in Bordeaux, before Phylloxera destroyed the rootstock.
Further evidence popped into my inbox today from Sherry-Lehmann. The wine store is advertising 2008 Salomon Estate’s Norwood Shiraz/Cabernet. The wine is characterized as “an Aussie take on the classic Bordeaux blend.” The wine usually retails for $21.95, but is on special for $14.95 for a limited time.
It’s no first growth, but it affirms that New World wines are gaining in popularity. Of course classic Bordeaux will continue to hold court among investors and collectors, but the reality is that the everyday wine drinker is investing in something else.
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