The beauty of Bea

Like wine, religion is personal. The concept of church often evokes strong opinions and beliefs vary widely. Yet, one thing that is indisputable is the importance the church has played in the history of wine. Various religious orders grew wine, which was believed to be sacred (and let’s face it, still is), because they had the knowledge, land and time to produce it.

The Cistercian nuns of Monastero Suoro Cisterci near Vitorchiano, about 30 miles north of Rome, were no exception. Communities of these nuns have rooted histories in producing wine, beer and other spirits. Among the order, a small group of nuns have an organic vineyard that they tend by hand, planted with Trebbiano, Verdicchio, Malvasia and Grechetto.

Every harvest, since 2005, Giampiero Bea, the son of famous Italian winemaker Paolo Bea, whose estate is in Montefalco in Umbria – a rather far distance – returns to the Cistercians’ vineyard to produce their two wines under the famous Bea label.

Bea practices natural wine techniques that originated in the Beaujolais region in France. Bea’s wines use only natural yeasts, have no additives, are unfiltered and use a minimal amount of sulfur before bottling.

The Bea portfolio includes an array of white and reds. Last night, a coworker and I went to Dell’Anima for dinner. We started with a glass of the 2007 Coenobium Rusticum, Monastero Vitorchiano Cistercensi.

The word Coenobium loosely translated means colony, which seems appropriate given the role of the Cistercian nuns. The wine is cloudy and orange in color, and is served at cellar temperature. The color is a result of the extensive contact with the skins, which adds flavor and tannin to the wine. It drinks more like a red than a crisp white that one would expect from a composition of 55% Trebbiano, 15% Verdicchio, 20% Malvasia and 10% Grechetto. On the nose are characteristics of orange rind, honey, apricot and nuts.

Perhaps my favorite of Bea’s whites, however, is the Santa Chiara from Montefalco. Again, it is a darker, heavier white with notes of honey, apricot, nuts and herbs, and consists of Grecchetto, Malvasia, Sauvignon Blanc, Garganega, and Chardonnay.

Of course, Bea’s brilliance extends to his reds. Among my favorites are the Montefalco Rosso and the Sagrantino di Montefalco Secco Pagliaro. The Rosso is a blend of Sangiovese, Montepulciano, and Sagrantino, while the Sagrantino is comprised 100% of the grape of the same name. Both express dark fruits and vanilla flavors, along with some earthy and herbaceous qualities.

Because all of these wines are made by natural standards – without any manipulation in the vineyard – the amount produced each year varies. The winemaker denotes the total number of bottles produced each year on every label.

There’s a connection between religion and Bea’s viticulture practices. The winemaker gives up control, allowing the grapes to grow naturally and fermentation to occur without interference, yielding a product that can’t be explained. Similarly, there are events, circumstances and experiences in our everyday lives that also cannot be explained.

Either way, no matter what your religious affiliation, there’s something larger than ourselves that we can’t understand, but we know that we’re witnessing greatness.

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In Vias Veritas

The spring portfolio tasting for Vias Imports took place today in the Manhattan Ballroom of the Marriott Marquis. A significant representation of Vias’ offerings include Italian wines, which are among my favorite. (Note, Vias selections include California, Oregon, Austria, France, Germany, Spain, South Africa, Argentina, Chile, and New Zealand.) I feel fortunate to have been chosen as one of the pourers for today’s event.

At my table was a mix of selections from the Veneto and Piemont, two of my favorite regions.  Though I normally veer toward Barolos – and the 2005 Pecchenino Le Coste that I poured was drinking very well – I was pleasantly surprised by the Le Salette’s Valpolicella line-up, which also was at my table.

Among the Le Salette selections, I poured the 2009 Valpolicella Classico, the 2007 Valpolicella Ripasso I Progni, the 2005 Valpolicella Ca’Carnocchio, and the 2005 Amarone La Marega. My favorite was the Ca’Carnocchio, which comprises 65% Corvina, 10% Oseleta, 10% Rondinella, 5% Sangiovese, 5% Corvinone, and 5% Croatina.  The result: a soft, velvety wine with some nice dark plum and black fruit on the palate.

Perhaps the best wine in the entire room, from what guests relayed back to me, was the 2004 Dal Forno Valpolicella Superiore that also was at my table. It was delicious. As a fan of Giuseppe Quintarelli, I feel guilty saying that I may have preferred Dal Forno’s Valpolicella. It was rich, amazingly balanced with fruit, acidity and tannins. It was offered to retailers and restaurants at $712 for a six pack.

There were roughly 230 wines that were served, and as a pourer, you quickly become a drinker. I tasted the Barolos from Cogno and Damilano, all of which showed nicely, as well as the 2002 Gravner Ribolla Gialloa, the 2005 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino, the 2004 La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino and the 2004 Le Presi Brunello di Montalcino.

I wasn’t able to taste all of the wines in the room; however, I’m certain that everyone manifested the quality that Vias upholds. If you come across a wine imported by Vias, I say buy it. Their selections are among the “Cru.”

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Worth the hype?

Every once in a while we are disappointed because experiences don’t live up to our expectations. Such disillusions may come in the form of movies, restaurants, and, yes, wine.

A recent personal example is when I tasted the Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2007. The Guidalberto is the second wine of Sassicaia, introduced in 2000. It comprises 45% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot and 10% sangiovese, the latter two varieties never included in Sassicaia. The wine is oak-aged for 12 months, in 30% new French and American oak barriques.

The store where I work part time received a shipment around Christmastime and before even getting to see a bottle I learned that we had sold out. Numerous customers called to place orders for future shipments, and the buzz and interest around the label further fuelled my desire to try the wine.

When I finally did taste it, I could not understand why so many people wanted the Guidalberto over some of the other store’s offerings at the same price point. Of course, to many, being able to afford a second-label Sassicaia may be the draw. If that is the case, however, I’d suggest trying Le Difese, which is the most recent addition to the portfolio, consists of 70% cabernet and 30% sangiovese, and sells for a fraction of the cost of Sassicaia.

I was reminded of my Guidalberto disenchantment when reading Food & Wine‘s April 2010 edition. Among the best new Italian restaurants is listed A Voce Columbus, but the wine highlighted is Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia Le Volte 2006. It is the third wine of Ornellaia and considered the estate’s everyday drinking wine. Again, I was not a huge fan of it when I tasted the wine, and figure the selling point is the name behind the label. (I prefer Ornellaia’s second wine, Le Serre Nuove, which is amazing in its own right.)

Don’t get me wrong, both the Guidalberto and Le Volte are very balanced and decent drinking wines. But the hype behind the names doesn’t seem warranted and there are equally good, if not better choices at the respective $50 and $28 price points.

I mention all of this as I’m heading out the door to pick up a bottle of Antinori’s Tenuta Guado Al Tasso Scalabrone Rosato. Spring is here and, though I’m not a massive fan of rosé, I have high hopes for Antinori, whose Tuscan reds rarely misguide me.

Yes, there’s a chance I’m setting myself up for disappointment, but the greater regret would be never trying.

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Natural goodness

The concept of drinking biodynamic wine is often met by two differing views. On one side, there is a growing movement among those who believe the fewer synthetic chemicals consumed the better. The other side consists of those who believe the addition of fining agents, preservatives, and other enzymes in the vinification and fermentation processes will produce a more pure and perfect wine.

As our culture seeks sustainability, there’s more acceptance to allow the grapes to grow without human manipulation. Sure, winemakers have employed these tactics for years, such as Ales Kristancic of Movia in Slovenia. Still, more farmers are turning towards a natural approach in the vineyard, avoiding man-made chemicals and instead opting for naturally occurring compounds, as well as herbal remedies to treat ailing vines, or no treatment at all but to let nature take its course.

For wines to be considered natural, a few criteria include use of hand-picked, organically or biodynamically grown grapes from low yielding vines, no added sugars, foreign yeasts or sulfites, no fining or filtering, and no acidity adjustments.

Ultimately, it all comes down to taste. Yesterday, I attended the Natural Wine Event at the Astor Center. There were no clear indications on the palate that any of these wines were organic or unfiltered. On a subconscious level, it was nice to know that the wines I tasted were among the most pure I could consume. Yet, just like any other large tasting event, there were some more pleasing than others.

My favorite in the tasting was the 2005 Minervois “La Mere Grand” from Le Loup Blanc in the Languedoc-Roussillon, France. The wine is composed of 60% grenache and 40% syrah. A bottle retails for roughly $23.99.  Also from the winemaker, Alain Rochard, was a 2006 “Les Trois Petits C” Vin de Pays. This wine blended some Spanish varietals with the typical French grapes, and comprised tempranillo, grenache, carignan and alicante. It retails for around $21.99.

One other standout for the day was the 2007 Colombaia Rosso Toscano IGT from winemakers Dante and Helena Lomazzi. It is 100% sangiovese, aged in a steel tank, with no oak. It is a very easy drinking, well balanced wine, with good fruit and light tannins. The bottle goes for $22.99.

Each of the winemakers showcased were present and available to pour their wines and discuss their individual production methods. There were 25 wines to sample in all.

Biodynamic or not, after that much wine it was time to drink water and get something to eat. Of course, I never did ask whether my skirt steak was from grass-fed cow or if the arugula was pesticide-free.

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Oscar-worthy wines

The 82nd annual Academy Awards air tomorrow night. There are around 24 categories up for nomination, but the truth is that only a handful matter to me, among which are best actor, best actress and best picture.

I’m quite sure that my opinions on who should bring home the Oscars will differ from the Academy’s selections. A film that moves me or an actress that I am able to identify with might not have the same effects on the judging panel. Plus, the judges are using far more scientific standards to critique.

However, there’s a stark similarity between film and wine, which is perception. Just like that movie I can’t stop talking about or the glass of wine that pleases my palate, someone else’s encounter might evoke different experiences and completely opposite reactions to either.

The point of the filmmaker is to entertain, and the winemaker is to satisfy. Yes, sometimes a film flops, but often there are blockbuster hits. This is no different from a winemaker missing a vintage or crushing it.

Each has his or her own cult following, and, like a film, wine can be debated, discusses and deconstructed for hours if not days. There’s so much depth to both, making them a fascinating pairing.

It seems only right to watch the Red Carpet and the Oscars while sipping some sparkling wine. My choice this year is going to be the Piper Heidsieck Brut Cuvee NV.

For fun, I’ve chosen two wines that encompass characteristics exemplified in a best actress and best actor nominee. Given that The Godfather is one of my all-time favorite films, I’ve chosen two Italian wines.

The best actress award goes to Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2004. It’s 100% sangiovese and equally comprises elegance, finesse and complexity. In about 10 years time, the wine will be even more magnificent and a true representation of the stellar 2004 vintage.

The best actor Oscar goes to Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella 2000. Quintarelli is a traditionalist and perfectionist. All of his wines are well structured, complex and have a long finish. The Amarone della Valpolicella is made from a corvina blend, including corvina, rondinella and molinara. The wine can be aged for many years.

You may have your own Oscar-worthy wines, and that’s wonderful because it’s the differences that make people so interesting and provide us with engaging conversation and something to discuss and appreciate.

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