The concept of drinking biodynamic wine is often met by two differing views. On one side, there is a growing movement among those who believe the fewer synthetic chemicals consumed the better. The other side consists of those who believe the addition of fining agents, preservatives, and other enzymes in the vinification and fermentation processes will produce a more pure and perfect wine.
As our culture seeks sustainability, there’s more acceptance to allow the grapes to grow without human manipulation. Sure, winemakers have employed these tactics for years, such as Ales Kristancic of Movia in Slovenia. Still, more farmers are turning towards a natural approach in the vineyard, avoiding man-made chemicals and instead opting for naturally occurring compounds, as well as herbal remedies to treat ailing vines, or no treatment at all but to let nature take its course.
For wines to be considered natural, a few criteria include use of hand-picked, organically or biodynamically grown grapes from low yielding vines, no added sugars, foreign yeasts or sulfites, no fining or filtering, and no acidity adjustments.
Ultimately, it all comes down to taste. Yesterday, I attended the Natural Wine Event at the Astor Center. There were no clear indications on the palate that any of these wines were organic or unfiltered. On a subconscious level, it was nice to know that the wines I tasted were among the most pure I could consume. Yet, just like any other large tasting event, there were some more pleasing than others.
My favorite in the tasting was the 2005 Minervois “La Mere Grand” from Le Loup Blanc in the Languedoc-Roussillon, France. The wine is composed of 60% grenache and 40% syrah. A bottle retails for roughly $23.99. Also from the winemaker, Alain Rochard, was a 2006 “Les Trois Petits C” Vin de Pays. This wine blended some Spanish varietals with the typical French grapes, and comprised tempranillo, grenache, carignan and alicante. It retails for around $21.99.
One other standout for the day was the 2007 Colombaia Rosso Toscano IGT from winemakers Dante and Helena Lomazzi. It is 100% sangiovese, aged in a steel tank, with no oak. It is a very easy drinking, well balanced wine, with good fruit and light tannins. The bottle goes for $22.99.
Each of the winemakers showcased were present and available to pour their wines and discuss their individual production methods. There were 25 wines to sample in all.
Biodynamic or not, after that much wine it was time to drink water and get something to eat. Of course, I never did ask whether my skirt steak was from grass-fed cow or if the arugula was pesticide-free.
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