In my early 20s, I first tasted Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio. At the time I enjoyed it, and, at $17 a bottle back then, I thought it had to be good, particularly because everyone seemed to be all about Pinot Grigio.
The more wines I taste over the years, however, the less I want to drink Santa Margherita. In fact, over the past several years I’ve boycotted all Pinot Grigio in favor of White Burgundy, Sancerre, Vouray, Falanghina and Verdicchio. (OK, so basically anything else.)
Part of the problem I think is that when ordering a glass of the wine in a restaurant or bar, it’s often served too cold, masking the flavors and reducing the bright acidity to a flabby, uninteresting wine.
A few months ago, one of the wines that was used for our store tasting where I work was the Attems Pinot Grigio. Though skeptical, I tried it nonetheless. I couldn’t believe that a Pinot Grigio could have so much character. There was crisp acidity, fruit and floral notes, and a nice clean finish. Also surprising was that the wine cost around $15 but hardly tasted cheap.
Still, I assumed the Attems was a one-off and I never pursued a quest to find a style that would silence the naysayers, present company included.
That’s where Jay McInerney comes in. His article, “Giving Pinot Grigio Another Go,” (The Wall Street Journal, Aug. 14/15) supported the widespread dislike for the grape, but proved that some perseverance could lead to pleasant iterations of an otherwise disregarded wine.
McInerney states, “…nobility is possible with this grape.” He goes on to list several producers that should be considered, and notes that the wine region of Friuli, Italy produces some noteworthy selections.
Among McInerney’s picks is Movia’s Pinot Grigio. Based in Slovenia on the border of Friuli, Ales Kristancic is known for his interesting, biodynamic portfolio. Movia’s Pinot Grigio is no exception, though it is so far from what’s expected from the standard varietal that it almost seems unfair to consider it alongside the others.
Nevertheless, McInerney points out that there is some potential in the world of Pinot Grigio. It may not be returning to favor anytime soon, but it once was en vogue and it just may be worth taking a second glance.
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